A Day for Baking

What does a person do when a friend is a long way from home (Australia) and yearns for a proper kitchen and her passion for baking? A good friend offers said friend the use of her kitchen, that's what.

 Ellen preparing pancakes

Australian-style pancake

My passion for good, home-cooked food naturally compelled me to help my friend Ellen with her overwhelming need and desire to bake to her heart's content. It was mid morning, and Australian-style pancakes were necessary to get Ellen prepared for baking. Australian pancakes are thin, light, fluffy pancakes, almost like a crepe, with brown sugar sprinkled on top and the squeeze of fresh lemon, then rolled up.  They taste even better when eaten with your hands.

 Aussie Ellen preparing batter with English Sally

 American Blogger assisting the baker

See, I can do more in the kitchen than just quality control.

 Flourless chocolate cake comes out of the oven

Torture waiting for it to cool

Canadian Sandra leaves Italy tomorrow and will soon return to her home base in Portland, Oregon. We wanted to say goodbye one more time. Being a rainy day, it made sense to invite the girls to my apartment for a bake-fest. We allowed Ellen to do her thing in the kitchen. We enjoyed good conversation, sharing life, love, and travel adventures over coffee and Ellen's delicious homemade flourless chocolate cake. My apartment smelled like heaven.

 Sally gives her seal of approval

 Sandra and Sally chatting

Sandra also approves of the cake

 The baker herself takes delight in the taste of her cake

It was easy to convince Ellen to leave her mixer in my kitchen as collateral so I could be certain she would soon return for her next baking project. Always happy, I am, to help out a friend in need.

Piu' Biscotti / More Biscotti

Visible signs of the heavy snowfall less than a week ago melted away with our current heatwave (60° F) and rain, but evidence that someone has been baking in the kitchen is apparent with flour and cookie crumbs on the table, countertops, and floor.  So the snowfall is inside my home rather than outdoors.

The experimenting continues.

Cool before slicing and returning to the oven

The first time making biscotti since my attempts last December, and the biscotti are near perfect.  A bit of tweaking is still in order, but I learned a big lesson today.  

The first batch of batter would not come together; so the cookies eventually found their way into the trash bin.  With the second batch I learned I need to trust in the process, and that in time everything will come together.  Just like rain and freezing temperatures mix to create snow, if I just keep mixing (being patient, trusting, and doing the footwork), eventually it will stick. And then I place my hands in the mix and knead the dough.  The trick is to get the mix just right: not too farinoso (floury; figuratively: flowery) nor too appiccicoso (sticky, gluey; figuratively: clingy, clinging).

Ready to eat

In the case of my quasi perfect biscotti, today it worked.  Magical.  What a wonder it is to create.  The second part of the lesson is to take what I learned out of the kitchen and apply it in my day-to-day life.

Mabel gets comfy while I bake

Biscotti - Cantucci - Cantuccini

When it comes to food, wine, and vinegar, there is much to be learned in Italy.

Remember last year when I was trying to perfect my biscotti? Without preheating the oven, I have recently made a head start. The outside temperature has cooled off considerably, and I am nearly ready to once again resume perfecting my authentic recipe.

While at lunch with family and friends a few days ago, my Lucchese friend explained to me (100% in the Italian language) the difference between biscotti, cantucci, and cantuccini. Biscotti (twice-baked/ cooked) is the generic term for any cookies that are twice-baked and loosely used for any type of cookies. Hence my head start. So I am not incorrect when I call my cookies "biscotti" since I do bake them twice, but isn't that a bit general when I want to be specific? In the States, most of us think of biscotti as the hard cookies we like to dip into our coffee or hot chocolate. Previously, I was under the impression that cantuccini referred to the miniature version of what I used to think was specifically, not generically or generally called, biscotti and baked only in the town of Prato.



No, no, no. Let there be no more confusion for me, nor for you. Biscotti are any twice-baked cookies or cookies in general. Cantucci and cantuccini originated in the town of Prato, possibly made famous by Antonio Mattei, and they always have almonds. The diminutive "-ini" means little. So cantucci are the larger cookies, and cantuccini are the smaller, fit-the-whole-cookie-in-your-mouth-at-once, bite-size cookies.

If your biscotti has raisins, figs, chocolate on top, or some other variation, you are not eating cantucci nor cantuccini; rather, you are eating biscotti.

In the States, we typically have our biscotti/cantucci/ cantuccini with a hot drink to dip the cookies into. In Italy, either cantucci or cantuccini are served as dessert with vin santo, a sweet desert wine, not an espresso.

In the coming weeks and winter months, it is cantucci I will be perfecting. And if I get really good at it -- which type of yeast is best to use? eggs or no eggs? how long to bake the second time to get the perfect crunchiness? -- I hope to end up with cantuccini, meaning the smaller cookies. Last year, my goal always was to bake the smaller cookies, but on the cookie sheet, the dough would spread and make the larger version.



Soon I will put on the apron and heat up the oven because, for me in Florence, it is approaching biscotti - cantucci - cantuccini season. Mmmm........

-- Josslyn
Firenze, Italia

I Biscotti

Cantuccini di Prato Los Angeles but homemade in Florence, Italy.

Twice-baked cookies. An easy recipe but nearly impossible to make just right. But I'm on a mission. I'm determined to get it down.

Not being the most proficient in a kitchen, I'm no master chef nor baker. I blame it on my busy professional lifestyle, but reality is I had other priorities and grew up eating out more than in the home.

In the past several days, I have attempted to perfect my biscotti. I have compared countless recipes and tried a number of them. Only a few ingredients are called for, yet it is amazing how differing the quanties are per recipe. Not only that, some call for huge amounts of butter or olive oil or only a small amount of butter or oil, but most call for none at all. Being health conscious but also being peccato di gola ("having a sweet tooth"), I prefer the recipes that don't include butter or oil. Each day I learn something I need to do differently; mostly, I use one recipe and learn from my mistakes. I have the flavor down. The form needs some work. The batter is different with each batch I bake. Of course, it probably doesn't help that I don't have any apparecchiatura ("equipment" in this context, "measuring cups" or a "scale"). Even though Italians eyeball measurements and learned their family recipes by watching their mothers cook who watched their mothers cook, who in turn watched their mothers cook in the generations prior, not being so well-versed in the kitchen, it may behoove me to at least buy a bilancia ("scale").

I have been timidly making the rounds to my friends in town, people whom have probably been eating biscotti since they were teething. Even the local police have tasted my biscotti and identified which ingredients I have included. I am receiving valuable information, feedback, constructive criticism, and even compliments. Oh, and I have the one friend that claims to have broken her tooth on my biscotti, which I know was a joke. Overall, everyone says the flavor is right on. I have several people volunteering to sample my biscotti daily. Getting just the right amount of croccantezza ("crispiness") with still a bit of chewiness is what I'm going for as well as the form.

Who knows? At 18 to 22 Euro a kilo, I may be able to start selling my special biscotti soon. A girl's got to make a living!

Cantuccini is most often enjoyed following dinner with Vin Santo, a sweet dessert wine. I prefer it with my coffee. However, I like it just fine all by itself.

Today's batch seems to be almost perfect. Time to go make the rounds ... after a few biscotti for energy.

-- Josslyn 'Giosalina'
Florence, Italy