The Crucifix of Santo Spirito

Michelangelo Buonarroti self-taught the study of anatomy.  In the wee hours of the night, Michelangelo would sneak in and out of the morgue of the hospital at the church of Santo Spirito in Florence, Italy.  He would carve and dissect corpses and commit to his memory each layer of the body's systems.  The prior of Santo Spirito, Niccolo Bichiellini, was aware of someone entering the morgue, but it took quite a while before he put two and two together and came to the realization that it was indeed Michelangelo sneaking around.  Because the church prior liked Michelangelo and though the two never actually discussed Michelangelo's un-permitted entrance into the morgue and dissection of the corpses, there was an unspoken agreement that he was free to continue his anatomical studies; hence, no more sneaking.

Out of gratitude for the prior's generosity bestowed upon Michelangelo, when Michelangelo was a mere 18 years of age (1493), he sculpted the wooden crucifix of Jesus as a gift to the prior and the church. The sculpture remained in the high altar of the church until the early 1600s when some structural modifications to the church were made.  The cross was relocated and apparently lost for some time.

More recently, 1964, the sculpture was displayed in Rome and eventually moved to the Casa Buonarroti.  In the past week the sculpture was returned to its original home in the church of Santo Spirito.  I was fortunate to see the crucifix this weekend.

How do we really know it is a work of Il Divino, Michelangelo? He didn't ordinarily sculpt on wood.  I believe this may actually have been his only wood sculpture, but I cannot confirm this. It is a piece from his early years; hence, a bit simplistic in contrast to what he was known to create.  He wasn't known to sign his works.  Yet after much testing by the experts, it has been determined and confirmed that in fact it is a work of Michelangelo.  There are those who challenge this.  Always a controversy...  Who am I to say?  I enjoy learning about his life and the jealous relationship he had with Leonardo Da Vinci, and I accept that it is a work of art created by the master.

From my observation, the sclupture is smaller than life-size. The cross itself stands approximately six feet tall, and Jesus is probably slightly more than three feet tall.  The face is humble and peaceful; his feet nailed to the cross.  It is a gorgeous piece. Originally, Jesus was sculpted naked, with the understanding that a slip of clothing would be added, but in the various relocations of the sculpture, the clothing has been lost.

I had hoped to capture a photograph of my own, but the priest -- or was it a prior? -- was on duty in the room, making sure no one took pictures nor spoke or gasped too loudly.
-- Josslyn "Giosalina"
Firenze, Italia

Fruttivendolo (Greengrocer)

In California, we are spoiled because we have an enormous variety of fruits and vegetables available year round. In Tuscany, we have fewer choices, but we are better off eating mostly what is in season and locally grown, and we also have choices not found in California. In California, we have farmers markets; in Tuscany, we have the fruttivendolo (greengrocer). I frequent the fruttivendolo, but my preference is to go directly to Mercato Centrale because I am guaranteed to have a fun experience.

Bitter melon is what this fruit is officially named and makes for some interesting and raunchy conversation. Originating in Southeast Asia, China, Africa, and India, this particular selection of bitter melon was cultivated in the province of Arezzo (about 80 km/50 miles from Florence). Italians generally don't eat it, but the immigrants buy it and fry it. It is a cugina (cousin) to the cucumber, melons, and squash families. And for those of you who don't know, it is technically a fruit because it has seeds. A fruit can also be a vegetable, but a vegetable can never be a fruit. While we're on the subject, I'll tell you that tomatoes; cucumbers; squash and zucchini; avocado; green, red, and yellow peppers; peapods; and pumpkins are all fruit, not vegetables.

The outside has an interesting texture -- long, delicate, rubber-like to the touch, with warts and ridges, and a bitter flavor -- whereas, inside the fruit has a pulpy cavity with ripe, red seeds that are slightly sweeter to the taste. (No, I didn't taste it! I trust my friends who described and tasted it in my presence, thank you.)  It comes in a variety of shapes and sizes.

Bitter melon is known to have medicinal uses. Among the many uses, it stimulates sluggish digestion. I could imagine it would stimulate something. Clinical tests revealed links to aiding in the treatment of HIV and cancer as well as type-II diabetes.

Throughout Italy, bitter melon is more commonly known as pisello di coccodrillo, which I don't think I am permitted to translate on a public website.

How creative are you? How would you prepare this fruit? Do you eat it raw or cooked? Share your recipe ideas...

-- Josslyn "Giosalina"
Firenze, Italia

Prickly

Ouch! Some days are like this. They just hurt.


And today was one of those days -- it just kicked my @**. Felt a bit overwhelmed with a variety of things that hit me all at once.

Having a little awareness of the three Gunas has allowed me to have a bit more self-compassion on an exceptionally tamasic or rajasic day. But today it all caught up to me and took hours for it to pass, working diligently while my soul weeped. They say, "The longest mile is the one from the head to the heart." Intellectually, I know better, but sometimes the heart just needs to feel what it feels.

"What can I do?" I asked myself.

I spent most of the day working and decided to change my environment. I went for a walk and discovered gorgeous light.

While out and about, a friend called to meet and catch up. Since she moved across the river to the center of town and started school, we haven't seen each other recently. It was a healing couple hours, and I absorbed a little more of the amazing light.

And I enjoyed a sunset behind one of my favorite churches...



Once back home, some heart opener asanas were just the thing that completely restored my soul.
-- Josslyn "Giosalina"
Firenze, Italia

A Day to Remember...

Montevarchi (Arezzo)

A Friend in Florence organized a degustazione (wine tasting) event this past Sunday at a nearby Chianti winery, I Selvatici, in the town of Montevarchi.


We had the chance to learn about the winery's history, family, and award-winning wines. Based on my vast knowledge and experience of the raccolta (harvest) of olives last year (one day's work), I volunteered my services to help harvest the grapes next month and olives in November.



In town was a medieval festival, La Festa del Perdono (Festival of Forgiveness).



A parade. Renaissance clothing, games, and angelic faces.


A renaissance game is played, Giocco del Pozzo (put the ball in the well). Food is served. Pici dell'anatra (a thick, long, hollow pasta with duck sauce) is what I chose and paid for with Varchi.



At the end of the day, one Varchi equals 2 Euros, and 2 Euros equals $2.54. A fun day and a couple new friends.

-- Josslyn "Giosalina"
Montevarchi, Italia

Shapes

Finding churches everywhere is common, especially in a Roman Catholic country like Italy. Nonetheless, I spend more time outside any church, than inside. This nondescript church in Santo Spirito has caught my eye from every direction since I first lived in the area. I try over and over to capture in a photo the feelings it brings up inside me, and yet can't quite. Instead, its angles, geometric patterns, patina, shadows, and size capture me.

Just one of many things I feast my eyes on in a given day.
--Josslyn "Giosalina"
Firenze, Italia

A Ritual

Walking my dog, Mabel, is a joy. We share the opportunity of exploration and discovery.

To observe her go pazza ("crazy") over scents hundreds of years old is something she didn't experience in Los Angeles. In Italy where civilizations are built upon older civilizations, she always discovers something new to her nose. Her joy is a pleasure to me.

In the months since living in Florence, I have avoided a particular street. Perhaps it is the steep climb that caused me to choose a different road. Now living only a few steps away, we have made it our regular, late-afternoon passeggiata ("walk").

The first time I recently explored the street, I had several discoveries. One discovery was that my friend P. and I were exploring the same road in the summer of 2006.

I was immediately filled with happy memories of our explorations -- pellegrini ("pilgrims") that we are -- four years prior.

So when I walk out my door, the options are either turn right and climb a few stairs or go straight. Either way, I begin a steep climb for at least half a mile. Within three minutes of walking, it is so quiet that it is easy to forget I am still in Florence.

A slice of heaven. The views; the churches; the villas; the backside of Boboli Gardens; Forte di Belvedere; the many little details of art, architecture, and sculptures are just waiting to be noticed.

They say, "Every day walk your dog even if you don't have one." Mabel celebrates 12 years of life this August.

Thank you, Baby Girl, for rescuing me!
--Josslyn "Giosalina"
Firenze, Italia

Night Reflections

A quick update.  It's been a busy time.  Approaching a month that I am living in my new place and, well, I'm not exactly settled in yet.  Still in need of  buying some things for my new home, including a comfortable chair to work in since I spend so much time in front of my computer.  I have unfinished projects from my time in Los Angeles that are important and need my attention sooner rather than later.  And I am getting quite anxious to finally resume private Italian lessons.  But the days fly by.  Life is good.


Less than two weeks after I moved, my longtime childhood friend came to visit from Mexico City for five nights.  The following day I had a visitor from Hong Kong for another five nights.  And only a handful of hours ago my friend from the Lake Constanz area (outside Zurich) spent four nights with me and she arrived the day following the Chinese visitor's departure.  It's been a lot of fun, and I am exhausted.

Immediately after returning from taking my "brilliant and wise" Swiss friend, with whom I currently have a bet that I can't wait for her to win very soon, to the bus that would transport her to the airport, I hooked up with a local friend for dinner.  She, Mabel, and I walked into San Niccolo and had a delicious dinner outdoors on a hot summer night.  Mabel was entertained by a red cat that wasn't phased by Mabel's interest in him.  He just stayed cool and close to Mabel causing her to be just a bit more excited.


Of course, following dinner we strolled over for a gelato at one of a handful of my favorite gelaterias.  Tonight's flavor:  yogurt with nutella and fondente.  I always grieve when I see the bottom of my cup.  The taste of handmade gelato...well, I just can't get enough of it, which is why it is not all that uncommon recently that I end up in one gelateria or another more than once in a day.


Walking back home along the Arno River on the Oltrarno side of town, we snapped a few fotos looking in the direction of Centro Storico.

I hoped and still hope to be blogging more frequently.  Life is so good here that sometimes it's difficult to keep up and check in.  Here I am.

-- Josslyn "Giosalina"

Firenze, Italia